My quiet love affair with Iceland began in January 2020—just weeks before the world changed. I’ve returned twice since, and each time I leave, I know it won’t be the last.
ReykjavĂk was my starting point. It’s a small city with a big soul—safe, walkable, and full of quiet charm. The harbour sparkles against icy skies, the food is fresh and unforgettable (the fish, the lamb – as fresh as it gets), and the nightlife hums with low-key energy. On that first trip, I splurged on excursions—Northern Lights tours that came up empty, the Golden Circle, and the Secret Lagoon (a cheaper but still magical alternative to the famous Blue Lagoon) and honestly I didn’t regret any of it.
We stayed at Skuggi Hotel, a cosy hotel in the centre of town with a lovely breakfast to set you up for a day in the cold. The whole trip was a dream—made even more memorable when our flight home was cancelled due to a snowstorm and we got one more unexpected night in the city. Iceland tends to write its own itinerary.
In December 2021, with travel restrictions still lingering, our Paris plans fell through. ReykjavĂk was one of the few places still open—and I didn’t need convincing. But this time we hired a car. It turned out to be one of the best decisions we made (even with the speeding ticket). We explored the west and south: quiet churches standing alone in wide landscapes, waterfalls lashing down, sunsets that stretched for hours. Driving was surprisingly easy—wide roads, little traffic, and postcard views at every turn.
We based ourselves at Grandi by Center Hotels, another well-located, warm stay with free parking. One of my favourite stops was Selfoss, a little town that offered a slower pace and more affordable food (I recommend the Old Diary Foodhall)—worth a detour if you’re road-tripping.
And then, magic: on our flight home, my cousin—who happened to be one of the pilots—flew us straight through the northern lights. After years of hoping, I finally saw them from above.
March 2023 brought me back again. Same hotel & same rental car. This time, I gave in and booked the Blue Lagoon. It’s every bit as stunning as you’ve heard. I recommend adding this excursion into your itinerary but maybe don’t dunk your head in the water (my cousin’s hair took weeks to recover).
If you’re planning your own Iceland trip, here’s what I’d say:
- Try the local food—especially the fish and lamb.
- Spend time in ReykjavĂk cafĂ©s, sipping a mocha and watching the world go by.
- Hire a car—the roads are manageable and the freedom is worth it.
- Visit the Blue Lagoon—yes, it’s touristy, but it’s also magical.
- Don’t count on the northern lights. If you see them, it’s a gift. If not, Iceland still delivers.
Three visits in, and I’ve only scratched the surface. There’s something about this island—its silence, its light, its raw beauty—that keeps you wanting more.
If you’re planning a trip to Reykjavik and still need to sort out where to stay, I’ve got a link that might come in handy. It’s what I use to browse hotel options—it’s easy to compare places and prices all in one spot.
I’ve left a little piece of my heart in Iceland. And I know I’ll be back.
Molly Levi Travels 