I arrived in Athens in January 2022. The city was unexpectedly cold, snow lining the streets like a quiet veil. From the airport, we took the train into the city — easy, direct — and I watched the snowfall through the window, unsure of what was waiting for me.
At first glance, Athens surprised me — and not in the way I hoped. The streets felt worn, tired. The kind of tired that comes with too much history and not enough rest. I pulled my suitcase over broken pavements, past shuttered buildings, to my hotel and honestly, I wasn’t sure I liked the city at all.
Athens reveals itself slowly. We walked to a rooftop for dinner — the Acropolis in view, glowing softly in the snowlight. The food was forgettable, but the view stayed with me. Later we wandered the narrow streets, and I began to feel something shift. It wasn’t unsafe or unfriendly. It was just real.
The Acropolis was closed during our visit — the snow made it unsafe — but there was something rare about seeing it untouched, quiet under the white. We spent the days walking through ruins, along old stones and around the Panathenaic Stadium. We took the train out to Piraeus, the port where ferries sleep. The sea was calm and blue.
Athens is scattered with small, unexpected beauty — Ellyz and Little Kook are two cafés that stay in my mind, whimsical yet beautiful. But the moment I really fell for the city was on top of Mount Lycabettus. I climbed it, unwillingly, just in time for sunset. The sky spilled gold across the rooftops, the entire city at my feet. Only later did I learn there’s a cable car to get you to the top.
We missed Lake Vouliagmeni — it’s closed in winter — but maybe that’s the point. Maybe you’re meant to come back in another season, and fall for it all over again.
Athens didn’t charm me right away. But slowly, quietly, it stayed with me.
It’s a place for those who like their cities with stories. Those who don’t mind a little dust on the beauty.
If you’re planning your own Athens trip, here’s what I’d say:
Climb Mount Lycabettus. Wander the old streets. Visit the Panathenaic Stadium.
Drink coffee in a quirky cafe.
Take the train to the sea.
If you’re planning a trip to Athens and still need to sort out where to stay, I’ve got a link that might come in handy. It’s what I use to browse hotel options—it’s easy to compare places and prices all in one spot.
You might not love it at first.
But give it time. It will love you back.
Molly Levi Travels 